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3431
July 19th, 2017 18:00
my Aurora R5 needs more cooling?
I been playing Civ-6 and the GPU runs at 82c and the ambient temp of the case is about 60C i can hear the fan spooling up and down (not too loudly) to maintain some sort of threshold. I have the 850W PSU with liquid cooling (stock the way it came) I was wondering if i placed a external fan on top of the case to help suck the hot air out would that have any effect? if this is not the best solution whats the best way to quietly lower the tempatures?
dont want to hear alot of fan noise but just seems the Aurora is running warmer than it should
Thanks in advance
https://www.amazon.com/AC-Infinity-MULTIFAN-Receiver-Playstation/dp/B00MWH4FL4/ref=cm_cd_al_qh_dp_t
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Tesla1856
8 Wizard
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17K Posts
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July 19th, 2017 22:00
No, I would not do that. You have plenty of fans already.
What GPU do you have? Sounds like it is what needs cooling since it should not be 82c playing Civilization. Maybe turn-up the Front fan a bit so it gets plenty of fresh cool air.
Set AW-CC Thermal Control to Manual, and set up-hill curves for both fans. Experiment with the different sensors (I use CPU Sensor).
Talthan
18 Posts
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July 19th, 2017 23:00
its the 1070 FE. i used after burner and AW-cc to change the fan curves its louder now but the temps are still in the upper 70's I guess its just despite the liquid cooling the R5 has lousy cooling and the GPU runs hot without any decent way to vent...yet the temps that seem high to me are normal for the 1070. since we been talking i have only had chrome and out look open....GPU is 40c and the ambeint temp is 43C cpu 38C and all fans are currently at 20% except the GPU fan which is 45%
speedstep
9 Legend
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47K Posts
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July 20th, 2017 08:00
There is goo that can build up in the cooling portion.
No Idea where people think that their passive cooling should get down to 20C which is 68F or the temp of AC units
set in my house. 37c is 98.6 F which is the temperature under your tongue. 40C is 105 and Asking it to get that low is not realistic. I have seen multi fan loud units that get close to that. 50C is the temp of the hot water in your house.
For many of the Core series 100C is MaxTDP. 100C is the temp at which water boils.
Antifreeze additives get too concentrated in the coolant, then the excess phosphate and/or silicate would “drop-out” of the coolant. These “drop-out” problems cause premature water pump failures, radiator blockages, heater core problems and must occasionally be cleaned and the coolant replaced with distilled water and phosphate free coolant additive. This is solved by using G12 approved anti-phosphate, anti-amine, anti-phosphorous coolant.
Amazon.com: RAVENOL J4D2000-1 Coolant Antifreeze - OTC C12+ Premix VW TL 774 F (G12 Plus) (1.5 Liter): Automotive
Aurora R4 overheating problem SOLVED!!!
speedstep
9 Legend
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47K Posts
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July 20th, 2017 10:00
Heat and Temperature are Relative. 37c is the temperature under your tongue.
In the summer when its 95 outside I set my AC to 68 which feels cold coming out of the vents and its ACTIVE cooling.
Tesla1856
8 Wizard
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17K Posts
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July 20th, 2017 10:00
1. Good
2. Sounds fine to me. If fan noise bums-you-out, I suppose you could buy some different highly-engineered fans. You could game on a tablet (no fans in those)
3. Not really. Not seeing any cooling problems with Aurora-R6 here. Just a small case with lots of high-performance stuff packed into a small container.
4. Not sure what you are expecting. Cooling doesn't happen silently or by magic.
Tesla1856
8 Wizard
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17K Posts
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July 20th, 2017 17:00
It sounds like we have similar systems. If you want, run CPUID HW-Monitor. Min will be Idle Desktop. Max will be during gaming. Post screen shot with CPU cores and GPU visible.
We can compare.
tktnuri
35 Posts
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July 25th, 2017 08:00
I have an Aurora R5 I tested my system out last night. I added liquid cooling from the Area 51 R2 bought through Ebay. it has the top fan that pushed air out through the radiator at the top. The fan on the front pulls air into the case and blows near the video card. I have a dual card SLI setup running two GTX 1070's. I tested both manual and automatic setting through thermal management control center.
No matter what I set the fans too I only had a small change in case, graphics card, and processor temperatures. I also tested for more than an hour to get a better baseline with full load.
Temps. with fan set to manual and 100% for both front and 29-32
GPU #2: 67, fan speed on GPU never went above 50% was usually 42%
Ambient: 32-36
I did test 100% front fan and top at 40-50% because I thought maybe the air was just swirling around in the case without actually getting out and it didn't matter. Was really hoping for temps to drop on card #2. The first (top) card was 2-4 degrees cooler.
Temps. with fan set to manual and 40% for both front and 32-36
GPU: 68, fan speed on GPU never went above 50% was usually 42%
Ambient: 36-41
Temps. with fan set to auto, front 20% and top said idle but was still 1600-1800 rpm.
CPU: 36-42
GPU: 69, fan speed on GPU never went above 50% was usually 42%
Ambient: 32-39
The case seems to hit peak cooling at very low fan speeds with liquid cooling. My CPU temps prior to adding liquid cooler were 40-50 degrees.
The only thing I can think of adding to maybe get GPU temps down is a fan in the middle PCI pushing air out the rear but I have no idea how efficient those fan are. Other than that I didn't see much room for improvement with the case.
Tesla1856
8 Wizard
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17K Posts
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July 25th, 2017 09:00
1. Good
2. Manual with uphill Curves is best
3. It's a small compact case (a small container with hot components and limited space). While Alienware went to great lengths to enable SLI capabilities, you have to ask yourself if SLI is a good idea thermally with the more powerful cards. I've always thought a single card solution is best for Aurora R5/R6 (due to cooling). Whether the cards are Blowers or Open-Design might make a difference. For SLI, I've always thought an Area51-R2 was a better choice.
IMO, your temps aren't bad. Nvidia-SLI is gonna run a little hot and that's just the way it is (in any machine).
4. I like that idea (I've used them before on other machines over the years and they work). It also looks like the base is vented (small-fan it?). If you are a good modder, more venting toward the top might be possible (what's on very top between Top-Fan and front of machine) . If 3.5inch HDD was removed, could the front be used to bring-in or exhaust air ? (not sure about framing, just throwing out ideas).
tktnuri
35 Posts
0
July 25th, 2017 09:00
The OPs temps are out of whack and sounds like a card issue rather than case. For me I am no longer complaining about my temps once I added the liquid cooler. I'm trying to provide some perspective that we don't have a lot of room or options for cooling and adjusting the fan from auto to manual may not provide as much cooling as I thought it would. I thought I'd see a big drop for card#2 with the fan going full tilt pointed right at it but I didn't. I am now wondering if the power supply is blocking the benefits of the front fan and because the cards fans point down this may negate any benefit the front fan is providing. I agree a bottom mounted fan blowing air into and toward cards may work best if ones comfortable with drilling a few holes and mouting only problem may be getting power to fan.
side note: I think I'll look into PCI slot fan just to try if price isn't too bad.
Tesla1856
8 Wizard
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17K Posts
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July 25th, 2017 10:00
1 & 2. Exactly. It's small and really packed-in-there
3. Yeah, check that. I thought I saw a mesh of holes down there
4. Power can come from anywhere with a splitter. I think they make cheap manual rheostats for speed control. Maybe even a PWM fan splitter (I think that's a real thing) but be sure you don't over-amp any on-motherboard fan ports (if you decide to use them).
5. I'm really liking that idea. It's right where it needs to be, and would be blowing hot air out the back. Get a good one that isn't loud.