anyone show me the door sw socket for alienware area 51 alx

Post a picture of how u have the liqwid kooling pump connected, + photo of the pump you're using. Perhaps jiggle the pump motor's black 5pin connector, see if it turns from failed to running

If having it in the correct port and jiggling / reseating it doesn't help then you'd need to probe the wires harness which leads from the top left powerboard > to the MIO daughterboard to make sure there's continuity. It is possible that if the jumper ground wire on the pump motor black 5pin from pin1 to pin5 is 'broken', it might say failed, so inspect the jumper & report back. Keep an eye on CPU temp, a failed cooler will definitely overheat yours

The Ylw / Grn / Org MIO CPU_Fan cable should be attached to your motherboard's CPU_Fan header, obviously the pump motor grabs power from the top left powerboard, powerboard has a harness, below

Probe for continuity perhaps between the black pump 5pin and the longer 20pin, if ok then disconnect 24pin from MIO and probe for continuity inside the 'orange' powerboard -to- MIO harness. Any bad wires need fixed, understand?

A link to where you bought it from so I can look inside would be nice, to see all this errant wiring, or post a pic or two of their listing photo if you can

ODD Motor, see MIO pic above for starters > The ALX-Files: Converting Area51 to ALX, ODD Front Panel Motor Install > this post has pics of the switch connector

however the motor & motor switch plug in as seen above

only MIO board part numbers FWKNT CR1KN 604GC will work w/ALX motor and have the connector

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Saturday morning edit

failed = no ground on pin5 >< running = ground pin5

Most cooling pumps from Asetek are basic 3-wire 3pin fan connector types > we're using a 3-wire pump that ends in a 5pin Molex SL connector, there's a jumper from pin1 to pin5 for a reason > if CmndCntr senses a ground on pin5, then pump status = running / if no ground on pin5 then status = failed. I backed pin5 out of my connector just now, booted up, pump = failed / shutdown, reinsert pin5, pump = running. A bad jumper connexion @pin1 (or a backed-out pin5) can cause CmndCntr to register a false-positive 'failed pump' that works

Last weekend, I started my Aurora R4 up, it'd been about 2months since I used it; I booted into a desktop widget that said failed pump > I opened CmndCntr & noticed a missing case fan widget also, so I rebooted and it all went back to working. Had it not, I would have done a power drain (below) & / or launched CmndCntr.exe & done a 'repair', which either would or would not have worked

Power drain is to remove residual power from MIO, Tesla calls it flea power, so > yank wall cord, hold top power button down for a minute > let rest 5minutes = optional > plug back in, see if draining residual flea power fixed CmndCntr lights fans or data reporting

In a rare circumstance the top left powerboard might go bad (maybe a trace is bad) which is why you want to test continuity at pin5 to whatever pin it outputs to in the black mini-20pin at the other end of the PCB > if continuity from pin5 to reciprocal pin in 20pin > re-probe pin5 to MIO, the reciprocal pin in the MIO black mini-24pin > if continuity exists then the entire wire harness & powerboard are ok for the running / failed circuit anyway. If pumps works then those circuits are ok. Reseat the 20pin and 24pin of course. If ylw / org / grn wired fan connector is on your CPU_Fan header, & your pump runs (because the CPU is not overheating, it must be running as one indicator), getting to the bottom of it would occur in future posts (pump that can't output a tach signal, MIO is bad or needs its firmware re-flashed, or CmndCntr software is corrupt)

Desktop Command Center Issues with fans, lights, or vents

"If the CC software or it's settings gets corrupt, or the firmware or settings on the MIO Board gets corrupt, they fall out of sync and it looks like a bad board. In reality, the Alien Technology sub-system (hardware/software) just needs to be re-initalized. This can sometimes be caused by something as routine as a CC software upgrade".

"If this doesn't work, please uninstall and reinstall Command Center again. This might take several times to uninstall and reinstall before it starts working correctly" > a 'repair' can sometimes substitute for an uninstall / reinstall; the firmware flash happens during install / repairs

***owners who swapped & are no longer using the original Alienboard may experience odd / erroneous data reports that are 'a tad off' for fan speed(s) & case temps in CmndCntr widgets that can not be fixed but may revert to 'normal readings' if CmndCntr is left open for a few minutes

damn yeah brother you are the best i managed to do the pump it was the black wires becausee as i said i got it and all caples was cutted so i thought i put it in the right way and said running now and for the odd motor sw i will try to arrange the wires and see 

thanx alot brother and if you can show me a better pic of that sw socket i will be glad brother

ok here we go again 

really thank you brother i was working on it like week ago 

finally now the the pump says success and the door i managed to do the wires and tried and the door was going all way down and stay active can hear it so i changed the pos of red wires and now it go all way down and stop and when its down and click on alien head it goes all way up and motor still running and then go down itself still woking on it but i will appreciate some useful help and really you are the best man 

I saw your video, gimme some time to make covfefe & think up a trouble-tree

ok i got them in the right way i mean the wires and now is working and go down smoothly but when go up it syuck and motor keep running and then go down i am uploading a video on youtube so that you can see

thanx in advance 

Bottom Left ODD SWITCH, Top right ODD MOTOR > ODD connectors are next to each other

all connectors on MIO Board go in only one way, MOTOR = 4pin, SW = 5pin

5pin ODD SW (bottom) = Blk / Red /  Blk + BabyJumper / Red / BabyJumper

4pin ODD MOTOR (top with tag) = Red / Blk / Jumper / Jumper

5pin ODD SW connector inserted into non-ALX MIO

old cropped photo of 4pin ODD MOTOR, Red / Blk / Jumper / Jumper

here is the video 

if need to take the whole front panel apart to do it i dont think it worth it

Alienware area 51 alx motor door issue - YouTube 

Based on the video, panel goes full up 'closed', but it appears that the limit switch isn't clicking the motor off

there's a limit switch in both the top right & bottom right of the lower assembly, labeled A & B

My notes here describe a method to test the switches w/a voltmeter w/continuity tester & audible alarm

I could put forth a theory that either the panel is not making contact with the switch arm A, or, Switch A is bad

With the computer off, I would back the SW connector out of MIO - or - if need be, remove the battery shroud & pull the harness out of the case through the access hole behind the fan for testing / probing. With voltmeter set to continuity test (maybe OHMs test on low ohms settings), as you can see for yourself, the top panel can be moved up or down with your hand, or 'forced' up or down without harm to the motor. I'd use the 'chart' & my notes on how to test the switches. In all likelihood, when the top panel is all the way up you should get a reading from switch A, then, as you break it free an inch or two the reading should change on switch A. No change in switch A with panel fully up and moved an inch or two might represent a problem, either the panel needs fixed so it makes contact w/the limit switch arm, or, switch A is faulty

If you & your voltmeter can not come to a conclusion about what is wrong, understandable, you may need to pull entIre front panel assembly off of PC ...

Area-51: Disassembly > @4:25

• https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jgt9IX1ORuM

Service Manual PDF Chapter 8 Front Bezel

• http://www.dell.com/support/home/us/en/04/product-support/product/alienware-area51/manuals
  

... Open it up & inspect it. At that point I run out of troubleshooting advice, they are very difficult to describe how to get open & re-assembled. I made a post about doing that, twice, you should read them both over & see the numerous pics if you need help. Basically, with front panel assembly laying on its back, you can pop the fixed bottom panel up & out, out a little, don't remove it, just peak inside & maybe get a look at switch A relative to the top panel arm that is supposed to make contact with it and cease contact with it. At that point your voltmeter can do some testing. see what's what. If you figure it out, pop-snap fixed bottom panel back in

Once the fixed bottom panel is popped out the 1st time, immediately take a photo of it in there, so u can get it back together again later. If you need to remove the bottom panel entirely in order to work the top panel up or down you can do so, but the bottom panel has to go back in the same way it came out. It has 'arms' on its top left and right that need to align or orient back the same way the factory assembled it > difficult to describe, you just kind of take it apart and prey it goes back together again. Go over my pics of what it all looks like

Treat the white ribbon cable like it's gold, it is

I do not know of a source that has spare limit switches, I do not have a spare because I have four motored front panels here and need my spare switches, therefore if you can not resolve this, you may need an entire replacement as easiest fix, sad but true, they're hard to find, may or may not be discontinued by Dell Spare Parts, but contact Dell or search X504R

If you think it's a bad switch A, let me know, I can ask a friend in Belgium if he has a spare to sell, but he may not, that is the only source I can think of. If anything else occurs to me I'll post it. My gut tells me that the top panel's plastic arm that touches the switch A needs re-aligned (it is on a gear-teeth system with the geared teethed motor arms) to re-orient to switch A in a fully up position. That might only be possible if the panel is pulled off of the case, opened, and 're-seated' relative to the switch A. Re-seated means: panel fully up amd the arm makes switch A 'close'. Hard to describe.

A new MIO might fix it though, we can't exactly leave the MIO off the hook, if the reality is the panel & switches are ok, forcing the SW connector in the wrong way would / could have done something to it *shrug*

Worst case scenario? You pay shipping both ways, ship it to me, I'll inspect it & maybe even fix it. Keep me updated, good luck

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when removing front panel, the ferrite core clamp must be removed 1st

find the ridges & prise it apart w/fingernail or tool

you have the option to re-attach it after the front panel is installed back onto case / be gentle when clamping --> or leave it off, I leave mine off

Back the four connectors out of MIO:

• Front Bot >< Alienhead >< ODD MOTOR >< ODD SW

Lay computer on a table, allow the front to hang off several inches so u can see underneath it. Remove both door side panels, remove battery shroud, remove ferrite core clamp (from prior post), pop the front panel bezel's side clamps off of the case (top & middle clamps, both sides, as seen in video), as it starts to fall off of the case, go underneath and release the two bottom clips, do not break the bottom clips, be gentle

The few people I know of including myself who've done this have described disassembling the front panel as an epic nightmare, depending on how deep u go into it (partial vs full). You may want to protect the finish on the top and bottom panels 1st with a shirt or blue tape. When re-assembling, the top panel will be fully seated - almost- then the bottom panel has to slide back in, mate with 'arms', & pops back in. You have to do all that before u can know what I mean. Note how the bottom panel mates up inside as it is popping out the 1st time, then, put it back together the same way *laughs* don't mess it up, and, if worse comes to worse and u send it to me, don't send it here damaged after working on it today then play it off later like I was the one that messed it up *laughs again*

Initial tests can happen w/a voltmeter, & simply probing the connector while leaving the panel on the case while moving panel fully up or slightly down a few inches to test what the switch and plastic panel arm are doing in there as a system ... decide later if it needs to come off and then come apart

only photos I have, the 'arm' in the left photo (arrow) makes contact w/the top & the bottom switch during the up / down cycle; it has to make contact w/the top switch (flip the spring-action switch from one pole to the other when in the fully-up position). It may be possible to look at or 'fix' that arm -to-switch tandem with the bottom panel popped out a little but not fully removed. The less these come apart, the better off you'll be as a first-timer. Otherwise, video the process for evidence of what it looked like the moment it came apart. If the fixed bottom panel IS fully removed so as to expose the insides as seen above ... ...

... ... then afterwards, those two bottom panel arms (above) need to mate up inside with the top panel's 'arms' exactly as they were when you 1st popped it apart ... while being ultra careful w/the white ribbon cable on the left (from prior pic), where the bottom panel's left arm lays over that ribbon > she'll make sense once u crack her open

well yeah that what i was thinking about there is something supposed to tell the motor to stop 

i will take it out and see whats going to happened 

thanx alot brother i really apreciate your help 

too late bro 

i pulled it out and it was the A sensor not in place so i put in its place and tadaaaaaaaaaaaaa

working 100%

thanl you really brother 

you are the best

awesome sauce. Now you have to restore it, panels easily found on eBay, Refreshed Electonics / SPlusDirect has a 99% chance of sending new never used panels at rock-bottom prices, usually a 10% off sale every weekend; they don't have it all but have some parts for a resto

• ALX doors P685R P686R
• ALX lowers P687R P688R
• ALX Front Panel X504R
• Top Activent Assembly P701R
• Battery Shroud W570R
• PCI Shroud 1R6H6 >< PCI Fan X506R
• Liqwid Kooler with copper base + 5pin connect W550R
• Hard Drive Fan R849R (M262M)
• Top I/O (power on/off button / USB Audio) U637R
• Motherboard J560M (purpe/green) XDJ4C V2 ALX (blue/black)
• Best Intel i7 CPUs 965x 975x 980 980x 990x
• Memory 12Gb max @1600 >< 6Gb max @1866 DDR3 triple channel (24Gb 1600 known to boot up)
• ALX MIO FWKNT >< CR1KN >< 604GC (EuP compliant)
• 1200watt power supply VHM5V (single Grfx rail, better) or J297R (quad Grfx rail)
• case harness U647R

Top Left Powerboard PCB has no part#, can be found on U568R Cooling Caddy

General Parts > https://www.ebay.com/sch/m.html?_odkw=a51&epid=1159260003&_ssn=refreshedelectronics&hash=item2ca8ab20c3%3Ag%3AjxMAAOSwWTRWxIMG&item=191808348355&_osacat=0&_from=R40&_trksid=p2046732.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.H0.Xarea+51.TRS0&_nkw=area+51&_sacat=0

Deep Dive > https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_sacat=0&_oac=1&_nkw=alienware+area+51&LH_PrefLoc=1&_sop=15

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start with some resto panels for your Alien brother

or stock up on cheap spares before they're gone

yeah got it brother and really thanx again as i told you this case comes to me cuz no one else could do a anything with it

i make it work perfectly and now i am a big fan of alienware and i will stick with that case i think because i love it and yeah right i will have to get some spare parts to make sure i can replace anything whenever i need

yeah i remmember last question is about that lil sensor comes with the battery back i really dont know its exact position 

and one more thing there is the bluetooth i put it in place and not showing on device manager

Morblore cleaned his Alien like 6years ago, came across this from his batt-pack > it's nothing we use or need to worry about, just keep it stuck to back of shroud

BlüTüth has to be plugged into the corret slot in the correct way, see MIO landmarks pic + below (all connexions go in only one way, they're keyed, do not force connectors in the wrong way or a burn out / malfunstion may ensue) > our BTüth 365 does not work with Windows 10, buy a new type for 10 ... if yours is installed in its correct connector & the drivers for it are installed, buy / try a new one $5 > https://www.ebay.com/itm/GENUINE-ORIGINAL-DELL-ALIENWARE-AREA-51-BLUETOOTH-CARD-ASSEMBLY-WITH-I-O-498NJ/252812786854?epid=2248474636&hash=item3adcd0fca6:g:HwYAAOSwkaZZcfex

Win10, you need a USB BlüTüth or similar > plugging something back into MIO is no longer an option, MIO 365 types are Win7 only