I installed a new ssd, unable to open BIOS.

Re: I am currently stuck on the Dell logo screen

it is stuck in post when bios cannot pass firmware test of new ssd.  You can verify this by power down pc, remove new ssd, power on again.  It would then likely sail through Dell logo which is a graphic front of post.  If it is still stuck, then replace cmos battery with a new battery and clear cmos settings via motherboard jumper.

Ok, I recall, Crucial’s tip to remove and re-insert the SSD. I’ll follow this with your steps and get back with the results. Thank you.

Edit: to answer yes, the new ssd is blank.

I intentionally had cloning in mind but went with a clean install approach. I do have a restore backup on a drive along with a separate W11 boot usb for either option. (I keep my personal files and junk on a cloud and keep my computer setup simple to reinstall apps, etc. when there’s a problem)

Now, along with my original problem, when I: power on my computer with the boot usb already plugged in, I am still stuck on the open. I see the F2/F12 prompt display during the open but I am not getting a response to BIOS still.

I may try a different keyboard, but mine lights up with power at least, but can’t confirm my keystrokes are working. For the moment I’ll reach out to Corsair’s support for any additional info. 

Thanks for your tips. I figured this to be simple upgrade so I’ll keep trying and report back. 

Did you image the old SSD onto the new one, or is it blank?

If the new SSD is blank, that might explain the problem.

If you plan to do a clean install, you're going to have to boot the PC using a USB stick with the Windows Installer on it for Win 10 or Win 11, via the F12 menu.

If you want to image the old SSD onto the new one (expanding C: partition to use all the extra space), you'll need to put the old one back. Then use software to save an image on an external USB HDD, or on an internal HDD, if you have one in this PC. Macrium Reflect (free) can do this for you.  Then use Macrium to create the bootable USB you'll need in next steps.

Now swap in the new SSD and close up.   Plug the Macrium USB into PC with power off. Power on and tap F12 to open the menu. Select the USB boot option. When Macrium loads, use it to transfer the image from wherever you saved it onto the new SSD. 

Be sure you understand how to use Macrium to increase the size of only the C: partition before you start the process. Otherwise all the extra space will be wasted. When that's done, exit Macrium, unplug the USB and PC should reboot normally from new SSD.

You don't need to make any changes in BIOS setup. Windows Boot Manager should always be first in the boot sequence.

Unfortunately, no luck taking these steps. The coin battery is replaced with a new one and I followed my computer’s manual to clear the CMOS. I’ll go ahead and check with Corsair support in the morning to double check as well. 

Here is my current status and what I’ve discovered:

• removed new ssd and powered on without it and have the same results stuck on front screen to possibly confirm a different issue than the ssd. I have also tried to install the old drive and get the same results. 
  
  
• I spoke with crucial support, and noted my computer power button blinking 5 times in amber color while stuck on the front screen. The service manual shows that the cmos battery has failed. I have replaced the battery, with and without ssd’s and have the same results. 
  
  
• I also notice my computer will automatically turn on when plugged in. Not sure if that implies anything. I do power down steps by holding down the power button to drain power after unplugging the computer. 
  
  
• I took the jumper steps per my service manual to no change in results. 
  
  
• (edit/add) that upon powering on the computer, it shuts off quickly then powers up again to freeze at the Dell logo. if that implies anything. 

Im afraid at this point I want to check my psu or troubleshoot why my cmos battery is failing/motherboard.

Any confirmation would be helpful as everything so far is helping me along. 

Be sure to use a wired USB keyboard and mouse, not wireless, and plug them into the two USB2 ports on rear of PC.

Run the PSU BIST by following instructions for PCs with a PSU test button on rear of case.

When you drain residual the power "...after unplugging the computer..." are you disconnecting the power cord from rear of PC before pressing/holding the power button for ~15 sec? Then after you remove the motherboard battery, do you press/hold power button for ~30 sec before re-installing the battery?

FWIW, some batteries can be dead, right out of the package. So maybe you should get a new name-brand battery and check the date on the package.

It's possible you accidentally dislodged something while replacing the SSD. Have you double-checked every cable connection to/from motherboard at both ends to make sure everything is correctly connected? And have you re-seated RAM modules, PCI-e cards, etc to make sure they correctly installed in their slots? You should do all this checking before reinstalling the battery again.

I picked up another wired mouse and keyboard and can confirm plugging both into the two (2.0) usb ports on the back of the computer. 

My BIST test displays a solid green light, and powers on the computer fans. Thank you for the link as I always wanted to know what that little button does. 

To check residual power, I can confirm the chord is removed from the wall and computer before holding the power button down. After removing the battery, I will hold the power button down for 30 seconds. 

Next I’ll repeat my steps and check connections while I’m in there and before putting another battery in. Just purchased a pack of CR2032 for this and my vehicle fob. The new battery in the fob works but I’ll try a different new one for my computer just in case. 

I’ll be back with an update

While taking my steps I am wondering if the positive terminal on the motherboard battery case is not making contact.

The battery case looks different than the one in my service manual. Mine does not have a clip to pop the battery out and there are 4 overlaps holding in The battery. I have to pry it out very carefully with a screwdriver tip taped with electrical tape. This is inserted where the positive terminal is since I don’t see the same case as in the manual. Maybe the terminal is damaged preventing a proper connection, thus creating the error code related to the battery. 

I took some pictures to show what I see and a screenshot of the manual’s diagram.

manual pic is just schematic not real life photo. compare your cmos battery socket w this real 5680 mobo photo.  It seems your socket contact pin is bent and cracked?

confirm you followed the CLR cmos instruction that is printed on motherboard 

Ok I see it. I’m certain I fumbled on getting the battery out by bending that piece. This for sure happened while removing the battery for the first time. Thank you so much for providing the pics. 

To confirm my jumper process, and referencing the service manual, I moved the tab to the 5/6 position for 5 seconds, then returned to the 3/4 position.

I’ll need to look up how to remove this battery more safely and continue with checking any other connections to be sure. But I’m quite certain this battery terminal is damaged by not being more careful. That’s the location I inserted my tool and had to twist to pry out the battery from the four overlaps. 

I’ll go ahead and look up some options and keep this post open until I’m 100% sure of the issue. Thanks again for your input. 

Right now I am still getting the same results, BUT here is my update with an unfortunate change:

My computer starts up for ~12 sec./lights on/fans on/nothing on the monitor and the power button is white, before turning itself off entirely for a second or two. Then it turns itself back on a second time and the front screen appears on the monitor. From here I see the options quickly appear for F2/F12, but there is no response to my keystrokes. The power button then displays the amber light blinking 5 times. The computer will turn itself off after being on for a while.

Sadly, I may have done more damage while trying to fix the battery terminals. While trying to use my finger nail to remove the cmos battery during my last attempt, the black ring holding it in place broke next to the positive terminal. I still tried to manipulate the terminal points to touch the battery. The black plastic ring is not broken off completely and can sit back in place. I reinserted everything, powered up and have the same results of being stuck on the front screen with the same power button error code (amber color, blinks 5x). I understand because I fudged it up it changes my ability to troubleshoot the original problem.

At this point should I go ahead and replace the motherboard? (I have a DELL replacement quoted already)

If yes, to a new motherboard, is it possible that I will have the same original issue of using Crucial’s P5 Plus? I’d imagine if the motherboard is replaced it should be an easy setup from there.

Lesson learned to have someone more practiced with this scenario handle this sort of upgrade. I’ll keep my post open a bit longer with this final question as I think I am pretty much out of options and I’m about ready for an easy out/quick fix that doesn’t involve purchasing a new tower. I love my 5680 and this is the first repair I’ve had to do since purchasing it in 2018.

Yes! Lol, it has been an interesting week as things slowly went downhill. All just to add more storage to my main drive with a new ssd and fresh installation.

This community has been great providing feedback and ideas along the way. I have found a video showing how to attach an external battery holder to the terminals to get by. The same battery holder shown in my manual is on Amazon for a few dollars. I may have that as a cheaper backup option to continue but I would need to hire a skilled tech/friend with a solder to move forward.

Thanks for your input on just making a quick replacement. The new motherboard is $223 (same one, DELL), and I see my spec model computer 5680 on amazon new for a thousand (1 left). That’s crazy that you can still buy one brand new.

I should have a decision made soon so I can close this out and prepare to ask for more help later

How this thread has turned into an interesting twist.  Someone with good soldering skill can replace that battery holder but it might not solve the problem if your computer has other issue.

I think the most cost effective does involve purchasing a new tower.  A new 5680 may cost you around 200 usd and some work.  It may beat Dell quote???