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1 Rookie

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9 Posts

46

February 3rd, 2025 03:55

Area-51 R2, replaced motherboard, power button malfunction

I have  replaced the motherboard , the logo board and the other board inside with the power button. All 3 anyways. No matter what I replace i am not able to get power button to function. It is intermittent as sometimes I plug in and it turns on other times I have to plug in and jump the two power switch pins on the motherboard. I did get the power button to work onetime when I first replaced the logo board. But never again. Left panel is also not lit. I am wondering could this be a power supply issue? If so, can I test power supply with my meter and be sure its the problem?

9 Legend

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14.8K Posts

February 4th, 2025 00:11

when power button alien head is pressed, pin 6-8 should short momentarily of the rainbow 9 pin front panel connector.  pin 10 is blank.

1 Rookie

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9 Posts

February 4th, 2025 00:22

@redxps630​ so I should get some clips and clip it than press the power button and see if it drops? I am very new to the idea of the tester. Sorry

9 Legend

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14.8K Posts

February 4th, 2025 00:27

just connect an Ohm meter to pin 6-8 of front panel cable connector (not the motherboard pins).  If power button works, pressing it would short 6-8 pin and cause a dip on Ohm meter.

the front panel cable is connected to FIO board. you do not need to connect molex 4 pin power to the FIO to test the power button action

6 Professor

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1.8K Posts

February 4th, 2025 02:16

Photo above is a wiring & pin diagram that describes the start & end of the Power On Switch (power on-off button) circuit

A voltage signal sent from motherboard front panel pin #6 (+) is "relayed" from points 1-2-3-4-5 over wires & PCB board traces 'up' to the power on button, which when it is pressed, 'relays' the signal back down through points 5-4-3-2-1 & ends at pin #8 (-). If all pins terminals wires & the actual button work, the system will turn on (or off)

While the advice is to use a voltmeter to confirm continuity at points to & from points 1-2-3-4-5, u MIGHT begin by unbolting the LOGO board & pressing the physical red power on button ... if system turns on, the full circuit is ok, & MAY mean that the plastic Alienhead is not making contact w/ the red power on button or is damaged in some way

If system STILL will not turn on when u press the physical red power on button, you'd begin testing w/ a voltmeter between points 1-2, 2-3, 3-4, 4-5 as shown

Last, you'd test the actual red power on button to make sure it works, by placing both voltmeter leads on both sides of button, press button in-down, see if u get a reading or not. If no reading, the red button on the LOGO board itself is bad

'Readings' on a voltmeter, mean set it to OHMs or Continuity Test w/ audible beep (see Youtube, search = test continuity with multimeter)

Or, it may be possible to set it to VOLTS, check for approx. ~5volt signal w/ red lead & black lead touching ground, likely by probing each side of the power on button solder points as a starting place. Or, pin #6 to #8 on the FIO board for instance ... ... ...

Poor pin-terminal contact at any point between 1-4 -OR- a damaged PCB trace -OR- a bad button could be the issue here; the voltmeter & tests will help narrow down the root cause

See eBAY for $5 on-off 2pin switch for testing also (search = motherboard power on switch) (filter-sort by price = low to high)

If all circuit tests are valid, if pressing physical button turns system on, likely the plastic Alienhead plunger isnt making good contact after u replaced-installed the LOGO board

6 Professor

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1.8K Posts

February 4th, 2025 02:47

Voltmeter set to DC Volts, front panel header (1) on my MSI mthrbrd

If red lead on PWSW pin#6 (+) & black lead on PWSW pin #8 (-) then reading = 3.4Volts

Again, unbolt LOGO board, reveal & press the red pwr on button, see what happens

Since the actual red power on button is of the most interest here -& if pressing it does nothing- then probe its solder points & u should see a 3-5v reading

If u get a 3-5v reading & pressing it does nothing then button itself is bad

If pressing it does nothing, & if no 3-5v reading, there's an issue downstream between points (1)-(5) the voltmeter can uncover using the volt-OHMs-Continuity settings & the schematic I poasted

You should get a 3-5V reading on ALL of these points:

(1) pins 6-8 | (2) pins 6-8 | (3) pins 1-2 | (4) pins 1-2 (or wires BLU-WHT) | (5) PWR BTN SOLDER POINTS

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